South America Part 5

South America - (part five)

Onwards to Equador

The early hours of 2002 found us still moored to a buoy at Balboa Yacht Club, enjoying a few fireworks that were being let off nearby. We were quite sad after Alex and friend Mark departed, but soon were busy helping friends Liz and Robert bring their boat "Dragon's Rose" through the Panama Canal. This was a more relaxed experience than our transit through the canal, as we were only handling lines and not worrying so much about damage to the boat. It also differed as we took two days, anchoring overnight part way along the canal: this was because Liz and Robert had not agreed to going through locks attached to tugs (as we had). By some miracle of fate Cass actually logged into the Canal Website and saw live photos of us via the webcamera at the Miraflores Lock!

We soon grew familiar with taxi travel as we sped around Panama City trying to buy a new solar panel: in fact we visited every solar panel distributor there, and it was the very last one that had panels that would fit on the boat. Jim also grappled, with Robert's help, on the problem (which plagued us for some time) of water in the engine oil. An expensive, and stressful time. However, at the end of each hard day, we enjoyed watching the massive ships passing on their way to and from the canal under the Bridge of the Americas, spanning the 2 continents. From there we traveled with "Dragon's Rose" to the Las Perlas Islands, and relaxed for a few days, waiting for a fair wind to Ecuador. One passage between islands was remarkable for the number of small rays we saw, in schools of perhaps a hundred, and for several manta rays - one passed directly under the boat, and appeared to be about the same size as the boat. As the Americans would say - awesome! Instead of chickens, the squawking of parrots woke us in a quiet anchorage off Isla Del Rey! We did our washing in a river on one of the islands, we had to dinghy up the river for an hour to find fresh water, but we didn't see any of the crocodiles that live there!

The passage to Ecuador (Click here for a map) took us 5 days during which time we lost contact with our buddy boat "Dragon's Rose" but spoke to the radio operator on a US Coastguard vessel (we assume patrolling for Colombian drug- smuggling). We headed far west to avoid Colombian pirates and to catch the right currents and wind. We saw very few vessels but did spot whale spouts in the distance, and one night had the company of 3 boobies on the pulpit, they weren't even bothered when Jim had to go onto the foredeck to deal with sails. We arrived in the Bahia de Caraquez bay just after dark, and anchored safely between the sandbanks - a navigational triumph for Jim and a nerve-wracking time for Rosie. Next day the pilot (organised by other sailors already in the river) came out to guide us between further sandbanks into the river, where we are still anchored after 3 weeks. En route from Panama we caught two huge mahi mahi. Having eaten one, we were able to offer some to our pilot (in addition to the US$25.00 fee) and also stage a dinner party for six the same evening. Jim made his special fish roe starter followed by fillets for main course. Very tasty! After formalities in Bahia with the Port Armada, we had to travel by bus (two-and-a-half hours) to Manta to check in with the Immigration Office (Policia National). Country very muddy, and lots of evidence of slash and burn policy on the hills. People nice, cost of living cheap but imported goods expensive. Having said that, Jim, however, has got his oil filters (not Perkins, but lookalikes from USA) at a good price. And all the engine oil (from changes associated with water problems) has gone to a local farmer to anoint his cattle with something about keeping the flies off!! On the way back we stopped off for a little shopping at Montecristi, the original source of "Panama" hats, so called because they were supplied to the workers building the canal Bahia itself is a quiet town, a beach resort for Ecuadorians, with friendly local people, though facilities are somewhat limited. After a few days we were ready to travel inland. Our departure was marred by a couple of things: we had bought a large number of cans of fizzy drinks (for the Pacific crossing) in Panama as they were cheap here. Unfortunately a number leaked during our sea passage and we didn't discover this until some time after our arrival in Ecuador when the bunk cushions were mouldering nicely. Rosie, in bathing costume, scrubbed them on deck when it was raining: it was probably during this session that she developed a blister on her finger which went septic, only recovering after being opened up by the Skipper with a pair of scissors and liberal application of cetrimide! The night before departure a nasty brown insect was seen running on the cabin floor so the "death-to-cockroaches" mix had to be quickly made up and put round the boat. Finally we got onto an executive bus to Quito, this meant a comfortable almost non-stop ride with a video along the way - in contrast. The altitude in Quito, 2850m, caused us some trouble for the first few days - we felt very tired, and were soon out of breath when climbing steps etc. We enjoyed visiting several churches and museums, notable for their gold and artefacts. Another pleasure was the cool climate, being able to enjoy taking hot showers, and drinking hot chocolate.

On our way further north to Otavalo we glimpsed snow-topped volcanic mountains to left and right of the central valley.Otavalo is noted for its huge craft market: its clear air was a refreshing change from Quito which, lying in the valley between the two mountain ranges, suffers from air pollution. The markets in Otavalo on a Saturday are even more colourful than during the week, as Indians from out-lying villages come in to sell their wares in the craft area, and buy all the necessities of life in the local fruit, vegetable and household commodities market. The common local dress in this area of Ecuador for women was a white blouse colourfully embroidered, a long wrap-around blue or black wool skirt over a similar white one, various headgear (usually a neatly folded and wrapped woollen cloth) and often a small child skilfully wrapped on their back in a crossed over woollen shawl. We spent several happy hours selecting wares, and haggling over woven mats and baskets, jewellery and ornaments. We watched a charming carnival procession composed of small children from local schools, all dressed in colourful costumes, many sporting tiny balloons of all hues.We spent several happy hours selecting wares, and haggling over woven mats and baskets, jewellery and ornaments. We watched a charming carnival procession composed of small children from local schools, all dressed in colourful costumes, many sporting tiny balloons of all hues.

After the return to Quito, where we left Liz and Robert, we headed south to Cuenca. Because it was a public holiday we were unable to get a through bus, but had to change at Riobamba. This actually worked to our advantage as there was a carnival procession taking place in Riobamba. Rosie opened the bus window to take a photos of the llamas and a water balloon shot in, aimed at her. Miraculously it missed Jim as well, and was skillfully caught by a young Australian over the bus aisle. We were able to fire it later at some children involved in a water fight! Further on, in a small village high in the mountains, the bus had to halt as the procession there filled the whole street. This time Rosie got out to take photos of the strange moving cones covered in strips of coloured paper (presumably small children inside), women dancing with chickens tied upside down on a pole between them, and singing men dressed up as women and so it was that she got showered in flour! We had a very pleasant hotel room on Cuenca, with balcony overlooking the square just by the Iglesia San Francisco. So, whilst Jim caught up with world news watching cable TV, Rosie watched the world go by outside...a religious procession on Shrove Tuesday with burning incense, candles, band and flowers, followed shortly after by giant rip-rap fireworks, shoe-shiners at work all day, early morning - men peeing on the outside of the church and the sanitary cleaners coming later and washing it down! We spent a couple of days there rambling round the town, and ducking (not always successfully) the water fire (filled balloons, guns, jugs and buckets) which are the chief feature of young people's pre-lent celebrations in this area. We also took a bus from Cuenca to Ingapirca, an Inca site, mostly ruined but scenic with llamas roaming the mountainside. The local women's costume in this area was very colourful, featuring full gathered bright skirts with embroidered hems, and either cream straw boaters or felt hats with a feather in the side.

Our trip from Cuenca to Guayaquil, where we were meeting up again with Liz and Robert got off to a bad start when we were the victims of a gang theft at the bus station. Fortunately we had only one rucksack stolen, but it was the one containing all the goodies we had bought in Quito and Otavalo. Jim was very angry and Rosie reduced to tears. We soon consoled ourselves with the fact that nothing of great significance was stolen. Our money, passports and cards are always kept in pouches next to our bodies. We later heard that the same week that an American couple who also left their boat in Bahia had lost a portable laptop, a radio and some vital insulin sneaked out of bags that they had carried with them onto a bus. Guayaquil (Click here for a map)is the largest city in Ecuador and is very busy, noisy and crowded. It was a base for Jim and Robert to travel (another two hour bus ride) to check out the marina at La Libertad, where we are now intending to go and have some cleaning of the boat bottom and painting done prior to the Pacific crossing. Liz and Rosie went sightseeing in Guayaquil where the waterfront, which has been reclaimed from marshland is an amazing sight, with gardens, bridges, fountains, sculptures etc. At the northern end of this development is the picturesque colonial district of Las Peas. A walk up the hill via a swathe of steps and an alley which has been "restored" was fascinating. The house fronts had been renewed and painted in bright colours, but a view from the top of the hill revealed the false roof facades, and a peek through shutters gave onto derelict land. About every hundred yards on the main walkway was an armed guard and each side alley had an elaborate gate, open for the residents to go through, but clearly a "no-go" area for tourists. The bus journeys have certainly been interesting: views from them have ranged from fright to delight - overtaking in the face of oncoming traffic, rockfalls and mudslides over the rain-drenched western mountain slopes, ever-changing scenes of mountains, agriculture (rice, corn, papaya, potatoes, plums and much more) small villages alive with colourfully clad local people, pigs, market stalls. On the stopping buses vendors pile on and ply their wares - from hot pies, drinks, sweets, fruit - to the most practised orators who, at great length, extol the virtues of jewellery or medicines. Although our Spanish is limited the use of one packet was clear when a jar of tapeworms was exhibited!! And so...Ecuador has provided a wealth of different experiences so far. We aim to travel south soon to the Puerto Lucia marina to leave the boat, for a trip to Peru, before some hard work on "Avalon" to ready her for Pacific travel. Internet searches suggest El Nino is building slowly but the worst effects would not be felt until 2003, so it shouldn't affect our plans to be in New Zealand by November this year.

Ed: - Jim and Rosemary are currently in Peru, which should be an interesting trip inland. Hopefully they will send details of their trip which I can relay to you.